stone (or stone forming materials)
Here is an interesting book from 1930's Soviet Union. It has many recipes for artificial stone. I've upload the Russian and Google Translate version in PDF. These recipes were collected from throughout Europe. Chapter on Artificial Stones starts on page 43 of the text.
B. ARTIFICIAL STONES
I.
Imitation gems
For the preparation of artificial precious stones, first of all, good glass fluxes are required, which give the so-called "rhinestones" and form the basis of artificial stones. These glass fluxes require the following materials: a) rock crystal, crushed into powder, b) borax or other soda salt, c) potassium nitrate, d) lead carbonate (white), e) red lead and f) metal oxide, which is used to paint
flux.
Various components (each separately) are crushed into powder, sieved through a fine sieve, placed in a melting crucible covered with a clay lid, and fused into a common mass by prolonged but careful incandescence (preferably in a muffle furnace). The resulting glass should be cooled slowly to avoid cracking. From the resulting glass, the necessary products are made by casting in molds or grinding chipped pieces. 1. Artificial Aquamarine Pound and fuse 36 rock crystal, 12 soda, 11 1/4 borax, 7 1/2 red lead. 3 3/4 saltpeter, 1/2 iron oxide, 1/8 copper carbonate. Instead of copper salt, 1/10 of cobalt carbonate can be added. 2. Artificial Pomegranate Pound and fuse 37 1/2 rock crystal, 11 1/4 soda, 8 1/2 borax, 5 1/2 minium, 1/4 manganese sulphate, 1/5 iron oxide. 3. Artificial azure stone Pound and fuse 22 1/2 rock crystal, 7 1/2 soda, 5 1/2 borax, 1 1/2 saltpeter, 3 3/4 bones, burned white, 1/8 cobalt carbonate. 4. Imitation Opal Pound and fuse 37 1/2 rock crystal, 11 1/4 soda, 5 1/2 red lead, 1 saltpeter, 5 1/2 bones, burnt white, 1/8 silver chloride. 5. Artificial ruby Pounded and fused: 5.1. 24 rock crystal, 12 soda. 11 1/4 borax, 11 1/4 red lead, 5 1/2 saltpeter, 1 cassia purple, 1/2 antimony sulphide 5.2. 24 rock crystals, 6 1/4 borax, 2 1/2 saltpeter, 1 cassia purple, 3 3/4 ammonium chloride (powdered). 6. Artificial sapphire
Pound and fuse 36 rock crystal, 22 1/2 soda, 7 1/2 borax, 7 1/2 red lead, 3 3/4 saltpeter, 1/3 cobalt carbonate; or: 24 rock crystal, 12 soda, 5 1/2 red lead, 1 1/4 saltpeter, 1 1/4 copper carbonate.
7. Artificial emerald
36 rock crystal, 22 1/2 soda, 7 1/2 borax, 7 1/2 red lead, 3 3/4 saltpeter, 1 1/4 iron oxide, 2/3
copper carbonate; or: 36 rock crystal, 12 soda, 7 1/2 borax, 7 1/2 red lead, 2 1/2 saltpeter, 1/10 cobalt carbonate, 2/3 chromium carbonate.
8. Artificial Tourmaline
8.1. To obtain a reddish-brown tourmaline, crush and
alloy: 36 rock crystal, 12 soda, 11 1/4 borax, 5 1/2 minium, 5 1/2 saltpeter, 1/2 nickel oxide.
8.2. For bulbous green to blue tourmaline
crush and fuse 22 1/2 rock crystal, 48 glass, 22 1/2 minium, 12 borax, 2 1/2 saltpeter, 1/10 cobalt carbonate.
Note. With this mixture, you can accidentally get topaz and chrysolite if
there is a small amount of iron in the mixture. You can also achieve this by replacing cobalt carbonate 1/4 yellow uranium oxide.
9. Artificial chrysolite
Pound and fuse 22 1/2 rock crystal, 22 1/2 soda, 5 3/4 borax, 3 3/4 saltpeter, 1/8 manganese sulphate. With manganese ore, you can also
amethyst can also be faked, and only 1/16 of manganese ore should be put on 24 mixtures.
10 Artificial Chrysoprase
Pound and melt 36 rock crystal, 12 soda, 11 1/4 borax, 7 1/2 red lead, 1 1/4 saltpeter, 7 1/2 bones, burnt
white, 1/8 copper carbonate, 1/4 iron oxide, 1/2 chromium carbonate. Light shades can be obtained by using only 1/4 of the oxides of three
metals (copper, iron and chromium).
II. Artificial marble and granite 1. Artificial marble according to Borchardt
1.1. The mass is prepared from pure quartz sand, carbon dioxide lime, talc and gypsum, to which may be added
finely ground dye. The sand used
consist of pure silica, and for this purpose it is washed and free from any organic constituents. After full
drying sand, 5-6% tripoli is added to it. Then as
binder for every 100 sand add 6-7 lime carbonate, 3 talc, 4 gypsum, 3 feldspar. All
components are mixed together with a small amount
water. The resulting mass is laid out in molds and after complete drying is fired at white-hot heat in a furnace without a blower.
1.2. Take 80 gypsum and 20 carbonic lime, finely grind, mix and knead with a mixture consisting of 1000 distilled water, 1080 lime sulphate.
1.3. Take 1000 water, 1440 glue, 1000 sulfuric acid. Then put
the dough into molds and, when it hardens, take it out, dry it in continuation of two hours, ground and polished with ordinary
way. Finally, the object is dipped in a bath of linseed oil at 70°C, then dried and smeared with stearin. For
aniline dyes are recommended.
1.4. The artificial marble is pale yellow to white. 30 rough white sand, 42 chalk, 24 rosin, 4 burnt lime.
1.5. Greenish. 28 coarse white sand, 42 chalk, 2 blue ultramarine, 24 rosin, 4 burnt lime.
1.6. Bodily. 28 coarse white sand, 42 chalk, 1 ultramarine blue, 1 cinnabar, 24 rosin, 4 burnt lime.
2. Imitation marble
2.1. According to Van der Steen. First prepare the water in which
be ground gypsum, adding carpenter's glue and resin to it; glue dissolves in warm water in the usual way, and the resin in warm turpentine bath. In the water thus prepared
gypsum is diluted in such a way that the entire mass is enough for filling out the form. After that, add the necessary
for coloring marble paint; paints should be prepared in special vessels. Thus prepared and painted marble
then poured into molds of gypsum, cement or rubber for flat plates on glass or stone boards. This
a marble layer is applied 4 mm thick, then a layer of dry gypsum is sifted over it to remove excess water used to dissolve the painted gypsum. As soon as this layer of powdered gypsum is thoroughly moistened with water contained in excess in colored gypsum, a thin layer of well-dissolved, but not colored gypsum is poured onto it, and canvas or radish is poured onto it. Then follows a layer of dissolved gypsum, to which crushed crushed stone is mixed. This last layer depends on the thickness to which one wants to give the object y, made of artificial marble. As soon as the mass hardens sufficiently (after 6-8 hours), it is removed from the plate or removed from the mold, wiped with pumice and the pores in the mass are filled with dissolved gypsum, painted in the main color of the cast object. To make the surface waterproof, it is treated with potassium silicate, and either immersed in a bath or spread the liquid with a brush. When the mass is completely dry, the surface is polished, and the novelty of the polishing process lies in the fact that it is polished with a swab wrapped in a rag and soaked in polishes compiled according to special recipes: 2.1.1. White polish for light artificial marble: 100 bleached gummilac, 600 alcohol, 25 finely ground gypsum. 2.1.2. Brown polish: 100 orange gummilac, 600 alcohol, 25 finely ground gypsum. First, the object to be polished is wiped with a swab dipped in alcohol, then the polish is applied with another swab
and the swab is continued to be rubbed until some adhesion is noticeable. The layer of polish thus formed is treated with the first swab soaked
in alcohol until a completely smooth surface is obtained. 2.1.3. Black polish. To do this, take a little black aniline paint on a rag. To achieve a uniform and very shiny polish, it is necessary to moisten the rag covering the swab from time to time with a few drops of oil. 2.2. According to Rosmer. Objects made from ordinary limestone - vases, figures, etc., are heated for 12 hours, at a pressure of 5 atmospheres, with boiling water or steam. Then they are placed in a bath consisting of a solution of alum at 5 ° B., in which they remain from 1 day to
several weeks. In this way, the stone acquires greater hardness and the ability to perceive polish. If they want to color the stone, then aniline paints dissolved in water are added to the mass. 2.3. According to Ostermeier. Milk of lime is mixed with finely crushed marble, or milk
of lime with chalk, until a kind of slurry is obtained. Based on a study of Pompeian cement, Ostermeyer recommends adding to this mass a sufficient amount of coarsely crushed limestone. This cement dries and hardens quickly. 3. Granite imitation Pure fine sand, pyrites or some other mass containing flint is mixed with freshly burnt and crushed lime in the following proportion: 10 sand or pyrites and 1 lime. Lime, quenched by the moisture of the sand, corrodes the flint and forms a thin layer around each flint grain. Upon cooling, the mixture is softened with water. Then take 10 crushed granite
and 1 lime and knead into place. Both mixtures are placed in a metal mold in such a way that the mixture of sand and lime forms the very middle of the object, and the mixture of granite and lime forms the outer shell from 6 to 12 mm (depending on the thickness of the object being prepared). Finally, the mass is pressed and hardened by drying it in air. The coloring matter is iron ore and iron oxide, which are mixed hot with granular granite. If they
want to give objects formed from the above composition a special hardness, then they are placed for an hour in potassium silicate and subjected to heat at 150 ° C.